H & H Garrafeira Sercial Madeira 1964

Palest and the driest of the classical madeira varieties, Sercial is known as ‘Esgano Cão’—‘dog strangler’—on the Portuguese mainland, a nod to its fiery, mouth-puckering acidity. At its best, racy and high-toned, it is a wine of exquisite tension: Sercial shows dry despite containing 20-60 g/l RS; its sweetness balanced by an exhilarating, mouthwatering tang of acidity. Pungent with dried orange, almonds and saline spices in youth, Sercial mellows in maturity: acidity less taut but no less integral; its deep nuttiness to the fore. There are currently just 16-ha found on the island.

Tasting Note: Medium brown with a ruddy cast. Incredibly expressive on the nose, with notes of fresh seaweed, bergamot, unpeated island Scotch, and the finest of Taiwanese oolongs. On the palate, the attack is very slightly sweeter and orangey, and the acid is very complex, never getting in the way. Some fresh and dried flowers, and Riesling-y apple and petrol, turning drier and more energetic the whole way to a mineral and energetic finish. A captivating wine that still allows a pairing with oysters or other shellfish.